Research conducted by chemists at Marian University in Indiana, US, has uncovered that the fabric of certain ‘fast fashion’ discount clothing harbors lead levels that exceed the safety thresholds established by the US government. This preliminary study, led by environmental chemist Kamila Deavers, was presented at a gathering of the American Chemical Society in Atlanta, Georgia on 23 March.
Deavers’ interest in lead contamination began over 15 years ago when a routine blood test indicated that her two-year-old daughter had elevated levels of the hazardous metal in her bloodstream. This issue was traced back to lead-based coatings on her toys. ‘I returned home, cleaned everything and disposed of all the colorful plastic toys like rubber duckies,’ she recalls. Following a follow-up test about two weeks later, her daughter’s lead levels were back within the normal range, according to Deavers.
The research team, which also includes undergraduate students Cristina Avello and Priscila Espinoza, procured clothing designed for children aged six and under from four different fast fashion and budget clothing retailers. They then assessed the lead content in 12 t-shirts of various colors by dissecting them into three sections – the sleeves, logo, and remaining fabric samples. ‘This was to guarantee consistency and precision,’ Avello states. ‘We needed to ascertain whether the logos contained higher or lower lead levels, as we wanted to ensure our results were not affected by that.’
Initial assessments of these garments, manufactured in various countries, employed x-ray fluorescence spectroscopy, followed by detailed analysis using inductively coupled plasma mass spectroscopy. All samples were found to surpass the US Consumer Product Safety Commission’s limit for lead, which is 100 parts per million. The researchers discovered that among all brands studied, it was predominantly the vividly colored fabrics, particularly those in red and yellow, that contained higher lead concentrations.
The researchers also conducted experiments to estimate the maximum lead levels available for absorption in gastric acid, simulating the digestion process. They evaluated potential lead exposure and absorption from these clothing items during common behaviors among young children, such as sucking or chewing on fabrics, adhering to US Environmental Protection Agency standards for possible lead transfer.
The results indicate that exposure levels would exceed the FDA’s daily lead ingestion limit for children, set at 2.2μg per day. Two of the items exceeded this threshold significantly, including one t-shirt with lead levels more than twice that of the FDA standard. Deavers mentions that these calculations may be conservative. ‘That is quite alarming,’ she notes.
Regarding the source of lead in these garments, the researchers highlight the use of mordants to adhere dyes and pigments to textiles. They also speculate that cross-contamination may arise from additives and other stabilizers during the production process.
Lead(II) acetate has long been utilized as a mordant, but Deavers stresses that there are safer alternatives available to secure dyes to fabrics and maintain their brilliance. These alternatives include natural mordants derived from plants high in tannins, such as oak bark and pomegranate peel.
Nonetheless, Deavers points out that implementing such changes in the clothing industry could be costly, emphasizing the need for pressure from consumers or governmental bodies. Her primary objective is to bring attention to the risks of lead exposure from inexpensive children’s clothing and to educate parents and consumers.
‘Many parents remain unaware, and a significant number are purchasing fast fashion items,’ Deavers informs Chemistry World. She aims to empower them to make educated choices when dressing their children.