There exists a fungus that flourishes on rocks in Chernobyl, subsisting on radiation. These are extremophiles—organisms that exist in harsh conditions. In a similar vein, hair withstands constant exposure to UV rays, pollution, heat styling tools, and beyond. Unlike living beings, hair cannot adapt as it comprises solely dead protein. Once keratin sustains damage, it cannot be fixed. This realization prompted researcher Patricia Maia Campos and her colleagues at the University of São Paulo to investigate biopolymers.
Earlier skincare studies revolved around a gel created from tara fruit (Caesalpinia spinosa) extracts merged with red algae (Kappaphycus alvarezii). Their ability to form biopolymer films piqued their interest—could it be applicable to hair?
The vegan aspect is vital, since existing salon treatments frequently incorporate animal-derived biopolymers, which not everyone prefers. The São Paulo group formulated a shampoo, conditioner, and leave-in product, each infused with 1% tara-algae biopolymer, and tested them against non-biopolymer alternatives and untreated controls.
Results indicated a reduction in hysteresis areas (a gauge of viscosity recovery), suggesting film formation occurred. The biopolymer, abundant in hydroxyl groups from tara and red algae, demonstrates thixotropic characteristics, essential for adhering to hair during application.
Biopolymer-treated hair revealed a 16% increase in diameter, a minor reduction in elasticity, and a 10% decrease in tensile strength. This indicates effective film formation as the biopolymers envelop the hair shaft, restructuring hydrogen bonds with keratin.
The advantages include a 29% enhancement in shine and a 22% boost in smoothness, corroborated by high-resolution images displaying aligned fibers and flattened cuticles. Campos remarks, “The blend of tara and red algae yields potent film-forming properties.”
In the realm of cosmetic chemistry, compatibility and consumer perception (texture, fragrance, ease of use) are as essential as the benefits. Although tests for UV protection are yet to be conducted, results suggest that the plant-based film could provide a physical shield against environmental harm.
The exploration proceeds to determine whether this protection is adequate against contemporary hair stressors, but it represents a promising initial step. And it achieves all this without any harm to animals.
Study link: [https://pubs.acs.org/doi/pdf/10.1021/acsomega.5c08778](https://pubs.acs.org/doi/pdf/10.1021/acsomega.5c08778)